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FEBRUARY 2009
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THIS ISSUE:
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What Worked for Rainy
The best combo for this kitty is
behavior modification plus drug therapy
By Sally E. Bahner
"Rainy chose us," says Debby Adams of Old Saybrook. She and her husband adopted the 10-year-old tortie a little more than a year ago through Forgotten Felines in Westbrook.
Debby’s first clue that Rainy had out-of-litter box problems was when she urinated in the sink. Rainy was promptly taken to her veterinarian for an evaluation, which was exactly the right thing to do.
Despite a clean bill of health Rainy started using the hallway outside the bedroom, the corner of the bedroom, the guest room, any towel or bathmat that was left around, and the living room and dining room carpets.
Debby stresses that Rainy was marking her territory, rather than actually urinating, although it can be difficult to tell the difference between the two behaviors. She believes that Rainy’s behavior was triggered by the lingering scent of their previous cat, who had recently died, since she marked the old cat bed and scratching pad. And shortly after Rainy was adopted, she was joined by another kitty, described by Debby as having "a strong female personality."
Although Rainy may have been better off as an only cat, Debby was committed to caring for her and set about finding a solution to the problem.
Her behavior modification program included the following:
- Putting tin foil on the surfaces Rainy soiled
- Taking the lids off the litter boxes and putting an extra one upstairs
- Using wheat litter, which is good for declawed cats (Although Debby is adamantly against declawing, Rainy came to them already declawed.)
- Getting rid of the plastic liners
- Placing food bowls in the areas Rainy had marked
- Using Feliway, the essence of feline facial pheromones, both upstairs and downstairs
- Removing items with the scent of the previous cat
However, what finally seems to be most effective for Rainy is pharmaceuticals. Dr. Tracey LaMorte of Fairfield Veterinary Hospital worked with the Adams on behavioral techniques and determining the best medication that had the fewest side effects.
Amitriptyline (elavil) was tried first, but it didn’t work since Rainy became aggressive toward the other kitty and rather grouchy.
Debby did a lot of research before Prozac was tried. "Everything I read was glowing," she says. She reports that there are few side effects, but warns that it takes a couple of weeks for the medication to get into the cat’s system. After about a month Rainy’s urine marking stopped. She has been on a dose of 2.5 mg. a day for about six months.
A recent report in the NAVC’s Clinician’s Brief found that fluoxetine and clomipramine, along with behavior modification programs were also helpful in controlling urine marking.
The administration of any drugs to your cat should be under the careful supervision of your veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist.
As Debby learned, an out-of-litter box problem is not solved over night. It takes time and patience and, most of all, a willingness to understand and accept your cat.
The Outta-Litter-Box Experience. A Dozen Tips to Help You and Your Cat:
- Dealing with inappropriate elimination requires the skills of a CSI investigator and the patience of Job. Here are a dozen suggestions for getting to the … er… bottom of the problem.
- Get your cat checked out by your veterinarian at the first sign of inappropriate elimination. If left untreated urinary infections or blockages can be deadly. Keep in mind that a cat that has been treated for urinary problems may still avoid the litter box because he associates it with pain from the illness.
- Basic housekeeping: Litter boxes should be kept clean and scooped at least once daily. Also vacuum or sweep around the boxes since some cats may not like walking on scattered litter.
- Make sure there are enough litter boxes. Even a single cat family may require two – one for peeing and one for pooping.
- Look at any changes in the household that may have precipitated the problem: new addition, health concerns, change in box location, different litter. However, consider adding a box to another level or relocating it from the dark, scary basement, and switching to Cat Attract litter, which is manufactured to help solve litter box problems.
- Give the cat(s) a choice: covered, uncovered boxes, a couple of different kinds of litter.
- Learn the difference between spraying (marking) and elimination. Spraying involves backing up to an object and eliminating vertically, while cats normally squat to urinate.
- Are there any conflicts that may be contributing to the problem? Is one cat ambushing the other or blocking access to the box?
- Monitor your cats’ elimination schedule. It’s easier than you think since cats usually go in the morning and the evening. Watch body language: pacing, circling, vocalizing and sniffing at the box are all signs. Don’t be afraid to bring your cat to the box and gently place him there as a reminder, and praise him liberally when he does his business.
- Flower essences can help with territory issues (Spirit Essence and Bach), along with Feliway, which is the essence of feline facial pheromones.
- Be sure to thoroughly clean any areas that have been targeted to help avoid a repeat performance. If necessary do a daily "pee patrol."
- And speaking of targets, laundry baskets full of clothes (ooh, they smell like Mom and Dad!) and latex-backed throw rugs are prime targets. Keep them out of temptation’s way.
- Finally, discuss the use of pharmaceuticals with your veterinarian, keeping in mind potential side effects. It’s what finally worked for Rainy.
Sally Bahner is a member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants and offers feline consultation services. She is "Dear Sally" on Tracie Hotchner’s Cat Chat Radio (www.catchatradio.com), found on Sirius Satellite Radio, Martha Stewart Living channel. She is a longtime editor and writer on everything feline. Visit www.exclusivelycats.wordpress.com.
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