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Reptile Man!
Ron Wulff, the Reptile Man, has worked for one of the big retail pet stores for 6 years as a reptile and aquatic specialist. He rescues reptiles and runs www.nopaws.com, dedicating his time to educate people on exotic pets. Direct your exotic pet questions to Reptile Man.
Q: Hey reptile man,
I saw a beautiful Albino Python in a pet store. It was yellow, orange and white. The guy said they can get over 6 feet long, but they are friendly. Are they hard to take care of?
Ryan
A: Hi Ryan,
If the snake costs less than $1000, it was probably an albino Burmese python. Ball Pythons (which don't get as big) are pretty much the same color, but the price is still high for them.
The fellow that helped you was correct when he said that they get over 6 feet, though he should have mentioned that it would be within a year. Burmese pythons are one of the true giant snake species, right up there with anacondas. Albinos are no exception. The biggest one that I have personally dealt with was 15 feet long and weighed close to 200 pounds. It was only 6-years-old.
Keeping a cage big enough for these animals, the correct temperature and humidity can be expensive.
It is also true that they can be very docile animals, unless they think they are getting fed. A careless mistake with a snake that big can carry a big price. There are too many documented cases of people being accidentally killed by their pet python.
It happens as simple as this. I was feeding a Burmese that was a little over 12 feet and 120 pounds. It was an animal that I handled many times in live animal programs. He missed the dead rat and grabbed the edge of the cage. They don't see well and can do things like that. I dropped the rat to grab its head in order to pull it off the cage, or it would have taken awhile for it to figure it out. I was kneeling at the time, and something told me to get on my feet, before I let go of its head. When I did let go, it came shooting out of the cage with its mouth open, looking for the rat he could still smell. I backed up and it followed me a good ten feet out of the cage with its head three feet off the ground. I had another dead rat thawed out and I was able to get the snake to grab that. The snake coiled up, thinking it killed the rat, making it easy to get it back in the cage while it was coiled up in a big ball. If I had not thought of standing up, and it had grabbed me while I was kneeling, I might not have been able to get it off of me.
Do yourself a favor and save up for an Albino Ball Python if you can't live without a pretty yellow and white snake.
Ron
Guinea Pig Expert!
Whitney Potsus has owned guinea pigs for nearly a decade. She is Vice President of The Critter Connection, Inc., a Durham-based non-profit dedicated to the rescue and rehabilitation of abandoned and neglected guinea pigs. You can find the rescue on the Web at www.ctguineapigrescue.org. Please direct all your Guinea Pig questions to Whitney.
Q: Dear Whitney,
Are there any communicable diseases that guinea pigs can acquire from their human family members? My beautiful Annie came down with a fatal upper respiratory infection shortly after I was diagnosed. I hope I didn't pass it onto her! I can't seem to get any information on this topic and would greatly appreciate your help!
Thanks so much, Joanne
A: Dear Joanne,
My condolences for the loss of your beloved Annie. The loss of a pet not only brings grief and sadness, but it also brings self-doubt and second-guessing as we humans wonder if there was something we missed, something we could have done differently. The doubt can be as hard to deal with as the grief.
I found nothing on the Veterinary Information Network about upper respiratory infections "jumping species," and my own vet confirmed that it's highly unlikely that Annie caught anything from you. URIs in guinea pigs are bacterial infections that can appear suddenly and move quickly; they can turn fatal if symptoms go undetected or treatment isn't started in time (see http://www.guinealynx.com/uri.html for a list of symptoms).
When veterinary treatment is obtained and antibiotics are administered, it is possible to beat a URI. At our rescue facility some of the pigs that have come to us from poor conditions have come down with URIs. Cindy (the rescue's owner) and the vets at Pieper Olson in Middletown have been successful at conquering many URIs. And we never stop learning -- while symptoms may be the same, every case is unique and it sharpens our understanding of specific health conditions.
The thing to remember about guinea pigs is that they hide illness as long as they can -- it's part of their survival instinct. In the wild, if members of the colony sense illness, the sick guinea pig will be abandoned. This instinct makes our job challenging, because we have to watch closely and learn to read subtle changes in their behavior; the more daily interaction we have with them (with any pet, actually), the better able we are to catch these subtle changes. Otherwise, by the time we do see actual pronounced symptoms, a problem has been brewing for days.
In the case of you and Annie, it's coincidence that you both got sick around the same time. The best thing you can do is honor her spirit by remembering the good times you had together and, like all pet owners, remember the learning points from the experience and draw on them in the future. It's the best way I know how to cope with the loss of a beloved companion.
Whitney
Dog Training!
Lynn Whittaker, Dog Trainer and owner of Bow Wow University has been training dogs for several years, has extensive rescue experience, is a pet sitter certified in Pet First Aid and specializes in aggression management. She is also an Aroma-therapist and a Reiki II practitioner. She has attended professional dog training school and later became the director of the facility she attended. She is currently studying canine athleticism and nutrition. Please feel free to direct your questions to Lynn!
Q: Dear Lynn,
I am planning on taking my dog for training. What kind of collar do I have to use?
Thanks, Susan
A: Hi Susan,
There are a few factors involved.
Collars are "tools" of the training trade. What kind of tool you choose depends on your dog, it's size, and how strong he or she may be. Additionally, where you train and what kind of trainer you work with is also something to consider. Not all trainers will train with the collar of your choice, but rather with the collars that they feel are best. In working with my clients, I attempt to start with the least invasive collar, such as a buckle collar and work up from there if needed. If someone has a very determined dog and the owner is incapable of managing the dog, a training collar formally known as a choke chain (such as metal or nylon), may be necessary. Whether you choose to use a pinch, prong, buckle, martingale style collar, you must feel comfortable using such tools to allow for better control and training of the dog.
No collar will function if you don't have a good line of communication with your dog. As a trainer, I attempt to train on all collars to be as well versed with their use and function, should I have to instruct a client who has a tool preference. I feel it is important that your trainer assist you in properly fitting any such collars, and that the trainer has a significant knowledge as to how to use them. When looking for a trainer, find one that suits your needs and preferences. Not every trainer trains the same way. I support your effort to train your dog!
Lynn
The Bunny Expert!
Susan adopted her first house rabbit 5 years ago and soon after got highly involved in rabbit rescue. She has volunteered at a local rabbit rescue group and a local animal shelter working with rabbits. She has since co-founded 3 Bunnies Rabbit Rescue Inc. Susan can surely answer all of your rabbit questions!
Q: Dear Bunny Expert,
How come my bunny runs and jumps and twists his body in mid air? He also sometimes jumps and twists in the air from a stand still position. Is something wrong? What does this mean?
Carl
A: Dear Carl,
Nothing is wrong with your bunny. This is normal. Here in bunnyland we call those binkies! They are happy dances! They are happy and content and this is just something they do when they are excited or happy. My bunnies often do this soon after I let them out of their cages for exercise and playtime. Sometimes my bonded pairs will do this while playing. One of my rabbits does this when he plays with my cat. All rabbits do this and it is great when they do because then you know they are happy.
Susan
Ask the Vet!
Lauren Mascola is the veterinarian at Petcare Veterinary Services in West Hartford. She studied at UConn for undergraduate and Tufts for Veterinary Medicine. She has over 10 years experience and 2 dogs and 3 cats of her own. She is excited to answer your questions!
As the weather warms up, it becomes more inviting to spend time outdoors with our pets. However, the warm weather is also an easier environment for parasites to thrive in. It is time to begin flea and tick preventatives as well as heartworm and internal parasite preventatives if you have not been giving these over the winter. A great source to gather information about internal and external parasites is www.petsandparasites.org. This site provides information about how parasites affect your dog or cat, the health risks to people and prevention tips. Have a great Spring and Summer! –Dr. Mascola
Q: Dear Dr. Mascola,
We have a 4-year-old Italian Greyhound that has taken ill. One Sunday she was full of life, running and playing and then the next morning she woke up with a fever. I took her to the vet in town. They took her temperature, it was 104. They did blood work and said she had some kind of infection and gave me antibiotics for a week.
After a week, Meeka still didn't get better. An x-ray was done and nothing unusual was found. Another blood test showed her one blood count was slightly better. Her fecal test was negative. She tested negative for Lyme Disease.
They put her on a three-week antibiotic, but still no change in her. She just lies on her cot all day and night only getting up to relieve herself and eat and drink. She has no blood in her urine or feces.
She eats, drinks, and goes out to relieve herself. Her heart starts pounding and her breathing gets strange. Back at the vet another x-ray showed her heart was slightly larger. An ultrasound was preformed, but no cancer or tumors were detected and her heart looked okay.
I'm not able to afford any more treatments for her. I had to charge $ll00.00 so far. They don't know what's wrong with her. On her last visit her temperature was okay. She doesn't run anymore. She walks very slowly and shows no signs of life. I'm afraid I’m losing her and she's in some kind of pain. But what? Can you please advise me what could be wrong, or should I have to put her down? I'm in tears over the expense and her not being herself anymore.
Thank you for your time, Liz
A: Dear Liz,
I am very sorry to hear about your little Italian Greyhound, Meeka. It sounds like a complicated case. Sometimes it is difficult to come up with a definitive diagnosis, since we cannot talk to our patients. Without being able to do a physical exam, or knowing exactly what blood work was run, and what the radiographs and ultrasounds looked like myself, it is a little difficult to come up with other possibilities.
However, there are two thoughts I had. One thought is that if she is not spayed, I would consider the possibility of a uterine infection. The second thought is to look for hypothyroidism. It may immune suppress dogs enough, in severe cases, to leave them open to developing infections. And it can cause the lethargy you describe. It would probably be best to obtain a second opinion from another local veterinarian if you are not satisfied with your current doctor.
Sincerely, Dr. Mascola
Fish experts!
Art Bell and Scott Henderson are not businessmen. They are aquatic (and reptile) hobbyists like you. They have a combined experience of over 30 years as hobbyists and 15 years working in various pet stores in the area. Send any aquatic questions to Art and Scott.
Q: Dear Art & Scott,
I currently have a 150-gallon tank for African Cichilds and have been interested in salt water experience for a few months now. What is the best way to convert, as I have 3 filtration units on the tank now. Also what are the better-suited fish for a beginner? And one more thing; what additional equipment will be needed?
Thanks in advance,
Thanks in advance, Deloris
A: Hello Deloris,
For starters a 150-gallon tank is a great size to work with. Depending on what type of filters you are currently running, there are a few things that will need to be upgraded. One of the most important things that will help keep a healthy eco-system is "Live Rock". Live Rock is rock (mostly dead coral skeletons) that has been covered over with various types of bacteria and organisms. These living things help in many ways to create a long-lasting environment that will support fish and corals of all types and sizes.
That brings us to our next upgrade: lighting. The type of light that you will need depends on what you want to get out of your tank. If you want to get into some of the more difficult corals, then T5, Metal Halide or LED lighting is the way to go. These will cost around $1000 and up to as much as over $2000.
If you’re more interested in fish than corals, then you can keep fish and lower-light corals with a much less expensive Power Compact Fluorescent light. These will cost between $300 and $600.
The only filter that would be a huge help would be a "Refugium". If you have a drilled tank with a sump this is very easy to do. If you don’t have a drilled tank it is even easier. Most sumps can be converted to a refugium with a baffle system (pieces of plastic to control water movement). There are refugiums that hang on the back of the aquarium and they come with a pump and light. These install very easily as long as your aquarium is at least 4" (check the overall width of the refugium you are going to purchase) away from the wall.
Last but not least, Substrate for the bottom of the main aquarium is needed. Use at least 160 lbs. of a mixture of live sand and "Aragonite". This will help with the eco-system to get your tank established quicker and safer.
There are many different ways to setup a salt-water aquarium, with many different components. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to contact us directly. The best first fish to put into your tank (once you've had your water tested) would have to be Black Mollys. They are a fresh-water fish that can be acclimated over to salt-water. They are very hardy and breed very easily (this helps establish your tank).
Art & Scott. Art and Scott can be reach at 203-294-1797 at the Aquaterium for more information.
Equine Expert!
Mary Jo Zanolli is an instructor at Connecticut Equestrian Center in Coventry. She has over 12 years experience teaching beginner and intermediate riders, and over 20 years experience riding horses. Send all of your horse related questions to Mary Jo!
Q: Dear Mary Jo,
Do you have any advice to help me learn to ride the sitting trot? My horse has a huge trot stride and I am finding it difficult to sit to his trot!
Thank you, Suzanne
A: Dear Suzanne,
Sitting the trot can be difficult to master, especially if you are on a horse with very big gaits. Learning how to ride the sitting trot is worth the effort though. Once you are able to sit to your horses trot, you can start to use your seat more to influence how your horse moves and carries himself.
It helps to start learning the sitting trot on the lunge line, with the rider focusing on balance and position and leaving the steering of the horse to the handler at the other end of the lunge line. The rider should try to sit as deeply as possible, stretching down through the thighs with the heel of the foot low. Try not to force the heel down in the sitting trot; instead, make the ankle joint loose and relaxed. Keep enough weight in the stirrup to allow the ankle joint to absorb some of the horses movement in the sitting trot. The rider’s abdominal muscles and lower back also absorb some of the movement, while at the same time following the motion of the horses trot. It is important that the riders’ leg and thigh stay long and fairly relaxed- if the rider’s leg grips too much then that will push the riders seat up out of the saddle and make it impossible for the rider to sit deep enough.
When first experimenting with the sitting trot it is a good idea to alternate between the rising trot and the sitting trot. Sit the trot for a few strides, and then return to rising trot to reposition yourself, then back to sitting a few strides, then back to rising, and so on. Gradually add more sitting strides, but when the sitting trot becomes bouncy return to rising. This will make it much easier on the horse’s back- horses tend to stiffen and hollow their back in self-defense when the rider starts to bounce. The more stiff and hollow a horse’s back, the more difficult it is for a rider to sit the trot! So it is easiest and most comfortable for both the horse and the rider to start the sitting trot in this way!
Mary Jo
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