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The Bunny Expert!
Susan adopted her first house rabbit 5 years ago and soon after got highly involved in rabbit rescue. She has volunteered at a local rabbit rescue group and a local animal shelter working with rabbits. She has since co-founded 3 Bunnies Rabbit Rescue Inc. Susan can surely answer all of your rabbit questions!
Q: Susan
I have heard heavy crocks are better than water bottles for rabbits to drink from. What is your opinion?
Samantha
A: Hi Samantha
I use both. In the past I only used heavy crocks. Then I started working more and came home to empty crocks, so now I have a crock and a big water bottle for drinking water in each cage. My rabbits are in pairs, so I want to make sure they have enough water for the day while I am not home. Drinking from crocks is more natural for them and better for big rabbits. But they can get messy and tipped over. Water bottles are better for small rabbits and the only thing you should use for babies. Babies can drown in a water bowl or crock. However, rabbits have to work harder getting a little water at a time out of the water bottles. Some rabbits prefer one over the other and you would have to try both to see which your rabbit prefers. Always make sure to keep them full with fresh water. So it is just your choice, or should I say the rabbit's choice. Whatever is used, make sure to clean them thoroughly to get scum out.
Susan
Ask the Vet!
Lauren Mascola is the veterinarian at Petcare Veterinary Services in West Hartford. She studied at UConn for undergraduate and Tufts for Veterinary Medicine. She has over 10 years experience and 2 dogs and 3 cats of her own. She is excited to answer your questions!
Q: Dear Dr. Mascola,
I have 4 cats and one of them has tested positive for FIV. He is not showing any signs or symptoms of the disease. Why must I keep him away from my other cats? My other cats have been vaccinated against FIV. Two of my cats are indoors only and one goes in and out. I feel bad keeping him in his own room, however he does come out in the evening when I put the other cats in our den for the night and keep the door shut. Will he ever be able to interact with the other cats or must I keep them separated forever?
Lori
A: Dear Lori,
Thanks for the question. That is great of you to keep an FIV positive cat in your household, as there are still people out there who believe positive cats should be euthanized. They can have an excellent quality of life. As far as his exposure to your other kitties, if they are vaccinated, they should be safe from developing the disease. There has even been some work done showing that FIV positive cats can live among negative cats and not transmit the disease by incidental contact (grooming, shared food and water bowls). It is much more common for the disease to be spread via a bite wound as it is saliva-transmitted and a bite wound delivers saliva deep into the skin and muscle.
He should remain an indoor cat so that he will not transmit the disease to others outdoors. But, if he were mine, I would feel comfortable allowing him to be with other vaccinated cats, indoors.
Good Luck, Dr. Mascola
Equine Expert!
Mary Jo Zanolli is an instructor at Connecticut Equestrian Center in Coventry. She has over 12 years experience teaching beginner and intermediate riders, and over 20 years experience riding horses. Send all of your horse related questions to Mary Jo!
Q: Dear Mary Jo,
I am looking for a lesson stable for my 10-year-old daughter. She has no riding experience. I am wondering what type of lesson program is appropriate for a complete beginner.
Robin
A: Dear Robin,
The best way to start a new rider is by putting them on the lunge line. The lunge line is a long rope attached to the horse’s bridle- the instructor holds the end of the lunge line, and is able to steer/stop the horse while the rider can focus on maintaining balance and correct position. Ideally the saddle will have a grab strap attached to the front of it, which the rider can initially hold until she feels secure.
The first few minutes of the lesson should be spent explaining correct basic riding position- eyes up, straight back, shoulder-hip-heel alignment, with weight coming into the riders lower leg and heels down. This position can be done first with the rider holding the grab strap, then gradually the rider should be asked to maintain correct position with hands on the hips, then arms stretched forward towards the ears, then arms stretched up towards the sky, and then arms out. The same balancing exercises can be taught in 2-point position as well as posting.
Starting the beginner rider out on the lunge line gives the rider the ability to focus 100% on their own body and balance without worrying about steering the horse. The trot work should be introduced the same way. This allows the new rider the chance to learn to ride with an independent seat, not relying on the hands and reins for balance. Gradually the rider can hold the reins and steering can be introduced, but this absolutely shouldn’t be rushed. Depending on the age and physical coordination of the rider, it can take several months of weekly lessons before the rider is able to steer off the lunge line for an entire lesson.
Mary Jo
Ask the Lazi Birds!
Steve and Diane Lazicki have been rescuing and working with birds for over 8 years, as well as raising them as pets since childhood. They live with over 150 birds in their "bird house," so they have a wealth of bird expertise. Direct your bird related questions to the Lazi Birds.
Q: Dear LaziBirds
Is breakfast the most important meal of the day for birds?
Jason
A: Dear Jason,
Well it has been documented that for humans it is. I will not say that it is not important for birds. When you consider that it is "the early bird that gets the worm"... We are reminded that, in the wild, birds have to forage for their food. Thus you snooze, you lose. However, in captivity, birds have absolutely no control what they eat or when they eat. As long as they have variety and balance, they should be fine. Breakfast is the start of our day. If your birds are a part of your 'family' (which they should be), Then a great, or, jump start, should be your goal. Birds forage for most of the day. For that reason, variety is the key. We are aware that exotic birds have specific dietary needs. This is where a pellet diet comes in. The birds at Lazicki's Bird House & Rescue are all on a Harrisons diet. There are other pellets on the market that are also a healthy choice. The rest of their foods consist of fruits, veggies and home baked goods. Variety is important, as that is what they would have in the wild.
LaziBirds
Ask The Cat Lady!
Sally Bahner is a member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants and has a private feline consulting practice. She is the "Dear Sally" on Tracie Hotchner’s Cat Chat Radio (www.catchatradio.com), found on Sirius, the Martha Stewart Living channel. She is a longtime editor and writer on everything feline.
Q: Dear Sally,
My Persian Gabbie was diagnosed with Interstitial Cystitis. When I return home after leaving her for a few days, she is spending all of her time in the litter box, without peeing much, it's very bloody and she also tries to pee other places.
I have never boarded her because I didn't want her to get stressed – I have left her with "grandma," which caused this problem and I have left her home with her best friend Maggie our golden and have someone come in to check on them several times per day. That didn't work either!
She seems so miserable and the doctor said that there isn't much that can be done – no medicine that can help and that she should clear up in 8-10 days.
I feel so sorry for her – does any of this make sense to you?
Diane
A: Dear Diane,
Stress is a biggie in urinary issues/IC/FLUTD, but each case and course of treatment is unique. It's a matter of working with your veterinarian (perhaps you should look into a second opinion and/or a holistic veterinarian) and trying various supplements and foods until you hit upon a combination that works. The pH of the cat's urine can determine which supplements to choose. In addition, Spirit Essence (www.spiritessence.com) has several flower essences – UR Fine, Stress Stopper, and Separation Anxiety – that may help with Gabbie’s emotional issues.
Check out www.ichelp.org/research/CatResearchFindsICClue.html. Dr. Tony Buffington has done a lot of research on this issue and mentions that small adrenal glands as being a cause with IC as a symptom. Emotional and physical problems are often intertwined and it often takes some detective work to figure out what is going on.
Sally
Reptile Man!
Ron Wulff, the Reptile Man, has worked for one of the big retail pet stores for 6 years as a reptile and aquatic specialist. He rescues reptiles and runs www.nopaws.com, dedicating his time to educate people on exotic pets. Direct your exotic pet questions to Reptile Man.
I found a turtle...
This time a year I get many calls and letters from people who find turtles and want to keep them for pets. Because it is egg laying season, the turtles are active and more likely to be spotted crossing the road, increasing the chance of human encounter. There are a few species of turtle in Connecticut, the most common being the Painted turtle, Snapping turtles, Box turtle, Wood turtle, Spotted turtle and Stinkpot (type of musk turtle and mostly aquatic). Some of these animals are protected by law and possession of them would result in a huge fine.
If you find a turtle of any kind crossing the road, it is most likely looking for a place to lay its eggs. Your first thought should be safety. Don't stop suddenly or do anything that could cause an accident. If the turtle is in danger and you are already stopped, place it off the road, in the direction it was headed. If you need to move a larger snapping turtle, pick it up by the back of the shell. Lifting it by the tail could damage the vertebrae.
If you find a snapping turtle digging a hole in your yard, it is no need for a big panic. Just leave it alone, keep kids and pets away and it will be done in a few hours and go back to the water. If you find the babies just put them in the water. They can swim.
If you want to keep a turtle for a pet, visit our web site and send us an e-mail. We get Red-eared Sliders for adoption quite often; ReptileRescueMan@aol.com.
Ron
Dog Training!
Lynn Whittaker, Dog Trainer and owner of Bow Wow University has been training dogs for several years, has extensive rescue experience, is a pet sitter certified in Pet First Aid and specializes in aggression management. She is also an Aroma-therapist and a Reiki II practitioner. She has attended professional dog training school and later became the director of the facility she attended. She is currently studying canine athleticism and nutrition. Please feel free to direct your questions to Lynn!
Q: Dear Lynn,
Recently my husband and I attended a cat show in Southbury where we were given two copies of Pets Press.
We don't have a problem with Cocoa, our 16-year-old Siamese or our 12-year-old, Abby.
Three years ago, we adopted Jake, a 3-year-old Sheltie whose owner had died. Jake is a lovely dog -- gets along with the cats and is friendly with people and dogs he meets on walks.
However, when the phone rings he gets frantic. If my husband and I are here, one of us picks up the phone and the other shouts "crate." He continues to be upset while we are talking. Our veterinarian says to give him a treat if he obeys.
Do you have a solution? Thank you.
Mr. & Mrs. Kugel
A: Dear Mr. and Mrs. Kugel,
It sounds like Jake may have some sound sensitivity to the ringing of the phone. Sometimes certain sounds can excite a dog, like the ringing of the door bell, etc. I am not really certain by what you mean "frantic." There are certainly many levels to describe frantic for sure.
I would take your vets advise in rewarding the no barking, spinning, jumping, shaking or whatever it is that Jake is doing, but getting to that point is going to be the work.
I would recommend that you sit near the phone with the dog on a leash. Have one spouse call the house with a cell phone to get the house phone to ring. Tell Jake to sit, if he doesn't, you need to enforce the sit and reward him for sitting; pick up the phone and continue enforcing that sit, by rewarding with praise or a small tid bit treat. Make your conversation brief and hang up and again reward the dog for sitting. You do not want to inadvertently reward him for going "crazy," but want him to understand that calm behavior is what will get him a reward.
Continue practicing this daily. The more you do this with the dog, you will no longer need the leash, but you can command him to sit in front of you when you talk on the phone. Initially the leash is to instill your leadership, as well as maintaining the position of the dog, which should be in front of you. It might be a good idea to leave a leash near the phone along with some treats. This way you are a bit more prepared, should the phone ring unexpectedly. You would call him to you, leash him and command the sit. Take small clear and concise steps with him, and once he understands what you expect of him, you will be able to carry on a telephone conversation with your dog at your side.
Lynn
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