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Reptile Man!
Ron Wulff, the Reptile Man, has worked for one of the big retail pet stores for 6 years as a reptile and aquatic specialist. He rescues reptiles and runs www.nopaws.com, dedicating his time to educate people on exotic pets. Direct your exotic pet questions to Reptile Man.
Q: Hi,
My daughter is 10 years old and loves frogs. She has all sorts of frog toys. Are there any frogs that make good pets?
Betsy's Mom
A: Hi Betsy's Mom,
At 10, Betsy is old enough to be able to deal with the fact that amphibians, like frogs or salamanders, should not be handled.
There are two aquatic frog species that are commonly offered as pets and are easy to keep. The African Claw Frog comes in its normal color and a whitish albino version and with an adult size between 4 to 5 inches can be considered a pretty big frog. A pair of them would need a 5 to 10 gallon tank with a filter. They will pretty much eat anything they can fit in their mouth, including other frogs, but if your tank is big enough and filtered, you can probably keep a larger goldfish with it. I would let the tank run for a month or two before adding the fish.
The smaller African Dwarf Frog can be kept in a smaller unfiltered 1 or 2 gallon tank that has a cover with a light, with total water changes, but fish won't do well like that. There are a few species of aquatic snails that will do well in that set up for some variety.
There are several species of tree frogs that do well in captivity.
The Australian Whites Tree Frog is bred in captivity and can be kept in a 10 gallon heated tropical tank. They can get pretty big (4 inches) and if fed well, can actually get chubby, developing rolls that give them a comical appearance. They too will eat any other tank mates that will fit in their mouth. The down side to tree frogs is that they sleep during the day, and are more active at night.
For a more daytime active frog that can be kept in a group, there is a pretty little frog from Asia commercially known as a "Firebelly Toad". They can be kept in a 10 gallon heated tropical tank with water bowl big enough for them to soak and swim. Crickets will be the regular food for both these and the tree frogs.
I am saving the giant frog species for last, because although they are the biggest they are probably easiest to keep. They are the most boring of frogs, yet will have their moments when they will impress or amaze anyone who hasn't seen it eat before. The Argentine Horned Frog also known as the "Pacman Frog" comes in some pretty colors including a bright yellow albino. The African Bullfrog charmingly sold as "Pixie Frogs" are a wrinkly olive green, with a yellow line down the center of its back and grows the bigger of the two. Both are usually sold as captive bred babies, ranging from as big around as a quarter to half dollar size.
Both can grow bigger around than a dessert plate and will be able to eat small rats. They are not all that mobile or active, being more the kind of animal that will kind of burrow into the dirt, and wait for something to eat to walk by. If they are kept in too big of a tank the crickets might easily evade them. They are probably the best candidates for the smaller plastic critter keepers, with a heating pad for while they are young moving up to a 10-gallon or larger tank as they grow.
Ron
Ask the Lazi Birds!
Steve and Diane Lazicki have been rescuing and working with birds for over 8 years, as well as raising them as pets since childhood. They live with over 150 birds in their "bird house," so they have a wealth of bird expertise. Direct your bird related questions to the Lazi Birds.
Q: Dear LaziBirds,
I have a few pet birds and I am putting together a first aid kit for them for when our pet sitter is here. What do you recommend I include? Is there somewhere I can purchase one already put together?
Asianah
A: Hi Asianah,
Yes, there is a kit which you can purchase at just about any pet store that sells bird supplies. We also carry them. It is called the VSI Bird First Aid Kit. It is good for emergency temporary care. Depending on how many birds you have, you may want to put your own together as you said.
This little kit has quite a bit in it and runs anywhere from $19.99 to $24.00 as a rule.
This is what it contains: 1 bottle Styptic Powder (toenail/feather bleeding); 1 pair Latex Gloves (personal protection); 1 bottle Eye & Skin Wash 20 ml. (flush eyes or wounds); 1 1" X 6 yd. Sterile Gauze Bandage (wrap around areas); 1 pair Scissors (trim feather, cut bandaged tape); 1 Pair Locking Forceps (remove broken blood feathers); 2 PVP Iodine Antiseptic Swabs (sterilization); 2 Antiseptic Towelettes (clean wound or hands); 2 Packages 2" X 2" Gauze Pads (apply to wound area); 5 Cotton Swabs (apply ointment or creams); 1 Roll 1/2" X 1/2 yard Adhesive Tape (secure bandage); 1 Hand Wipe (personal cleanup) - 1 Bird Emergency Card (record birding information vet phone number); 1 Bird Kit Case; 1 Bird Kit Direction Card.
As you can see, it is pretty complete and could handle most 'small flock' situations. It would be worth having the kit even if you put a larger one together for home use. The kit travels easily for vacations etc. We have one with us whenever we take a bird or birds to shows, presentations, bird club meetings etc.
I hope this is helpful to you, LaziBirds
Fish experts!
Art Bell and Scott Henderson are not businessmen. They are aquatic (and reptile) hobbyists like you. They have a combined experience of over 30 years as hobbyists and 15 years working in various pet stores in the area. Send any aquatic questions to Art and Scott.
Q: Dear Art & Scott,
What is the best way to set up a new aquarium?
Tony
A: Dear Tony,
The answer is the same no matter what type of aquarium (fresh, salt, coral, brackish, etc.) you choose to set up.
1. Research the different types of aquariums and visit your local fish store, your local library or internet.
2. Choose what type of a set up, the size tank and the location of the tank.
3. Purchase all required equipment, water-conditioners (de-chlorinator and living bacteria are very important), decorations, etc. for the specified water type.
4. All aquariums need to be set up with water, all equipment (filter, heater, lights ,etc.) running properly and the water temperature to the appropriate range for your fish type for a minimum of 1-2 days before adding any life.
5. When you go to make your first purchase of a living creature for your aquarium, make sure to bring about a measuring cup of water in a sandwich bag or other clean container with you so your local store can test the water before taking anything home. This will ensure that your water is safe, so you don't end up condemning your wet pet to death.
6. The two most common mistakes anyone will make with their first aquarium is they overfeed and over populate the aquarium much too quickly. The best way to add fish after having your water tested is to add just 1 hardy fish in a smaller tank (up to a 20 gallon) or just 2-3 hardy fish in a larger tank (up to a 60 gallon) for the first month. Do not add any other fish during the first month. This is when your water is going to establish living bacteria colonies. This is also when your water is going to get a little hard for fish to tolerate. Every tank goes through this "cycle". It is important to have your water tested once a week during this period so you know when your tank's "cycle" is done. This can be done with home kits or by your local store. Once your tank's cycle is complete you can start adding the appropriate inhabitants slowly, about 2-4 per month depending on how small/large the aquarium is. If at any time anything looks or is acting sick have your water tested by a local store as soon as possible...it could mean the difference between a speedy recovery or a burial at sea!
Art and Scott
Ask The Cat Lady!
Sally Bahner is a member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants and has a private feline consulting practice. She is the "Dear Sally" on Tracie Hotchner’s Cat Chat Radio (www.catchatradio.com), found on Sirius, the Martha Stewart Living channel. She is a longtime editor and writer on everything feline.
Q: Dear Sally,
I thought perhaps you could offer a suggestion. We adopted a kitten on New Year's Eve and he is approximately 8 weeks old. He was neutered the week before we got him. The problem is that he will not stop licking me, and or my clothes every time I pick him up. He does not do this to my husband, or to our other cat who is a 1-1/2-year-old female. Possibly she clobbers him if he tries. He acts like he's looking for a teat. After these licking sessions he usually falls asleep.
The strange thing is the second I pick him up even in the midst of play he will be begin licking. Any ideas?
He and his siblings were rescued by an organization, and given complete vet check ups etc. so he is very healthy.
Marleen
A: Hi Marleen,
Sounds as if your little guy has been through a lot at a tender young age–living in tough conditions, being separated from his mom and siblings, neutered. He's picked you as his purrson to bond with and feel secure with, and sees you as his mama. In a perfect world, cats probably should not be separated from their families until 11 or 12 weeks.
It should get better as he gets older and feels more secure in his surroundings, but if it really bothers you, you can try distracting him with a fishing pole toy or give him a toy to lick while you're holding him.
Tekla, our Russian Blue girl, will lick me on the face and even my mouth when she gets into a deep snuggle mode, even though she's almost 4. We picked her up at the airport after a long trip and I was the first one she bonded with. You also might want to look into flower essences, which are keyed to various emotional and behavior issues (www.bachcentre.com or www.spiritesscence.com).
Sally
Equine Expert!
Mary Jo Zanolli is an instructor at Connecticut Equestrian Center in Coventry. She has over 12 years experience teaching beginner and intermediate riders, and over 20 years experience riding horses. Send all of your horse related questions to Mary Jo!
Q: Dear Mary Jo,
What is the difference between the Western and the English riding styles?
Krista
A: Dear Krista,
At first glance English and Western riding styles seem quite different. Both styles, however, require an independent and solid seat with the upper body balanced securely over the lower body, and weight in the lower leg and heel. An independent seat means that a rider can move each body part independently, balancing over the horses’ center of gravity at any gait or riding position. A rider who has an independent seat does not need to use the reins and hands for security or balance.
The Western saddle was developed with the needs of a cowboy in mind. Western saddles typically have a deep seat with a saddle horn on the saddle front. The horn was originally used to carry a lariat for roping cattle. Cowboys used to have to travel over rough terrain for hours at a time, and this saddle was designed to be comfortable for long periods of riding.
English saddles are typically flatter saddles, designed to give a rider close leg contact with the horses side. The English saddle varies slightly depending upon if it is meant for dressage, jumping, racing, or saddle seat riding. The English saddle gives a horse freedom of movement to perform specific tasks such as jumping, or extending and collecting the stride.
The horses’ gaits also differ in English and Western riding. A Western jog is slower and smoother than the English trot, which requires the rider to post. Posting means to rise out of the saddle as the horses outside shoulder comes forward, making the English trot a lot smoother to ride. A Western lope is a slower, more relaxed version of the English canter. The canter is a 3 beat gait, where the pattern of the horses hoof beats follows a specific 3 beat sequence. The walk is similar in both disciplines.
Mary Jo
Ask the Vet!
Lauren Mascola is the veterinarian at Petcare Veterinary Services in West Hartford. She studied at UConn for undergraduate and Tufts for Veterinary Medicine. She has over 10 years experience and 2 dogs and 3 cats of her own. She is excited to answer your questions!
Q: Dear Dr. Mascola,
I am currently moving from my hometown about 30 minutes away. I got my Pug 5 months ago and she has adjusted wonderfully. I was wondering if my dog, Missy, will go through any emotional or physical changes. Is there anything I can do to help her adjust to our new house? Your answer will help me.
Thank you, Jo-Mari
A: Dear Jo-Mari,
Thanks for the question. I'm glad to hear Missy has adjusted so well to her home with you. Moving will shake things up a little, but dogs do tend to take moves much better than cats. In your new home, it is best to make sure she has items she was used to such as chew toys, her dog bed or a favorite chair, etc. Keep her feeding and walking schedule the same as much as possible during the transition. I think she will do just fine, mostly because what she really wants is to be with you! That should keep her the happiest. Best of luck for your move!
Dr. Mascola
Dog Training!
Lynn Whittaker, Dog Trainer and owner of Bow Wow University has been training dogs for several years, has extensive rescue experience, is a pet sitter certified in Pet First Aid and specializes in aggression management. She is also an Aroma-therapist and a Reiki II practitioner. She has attended professional dog training school and later became the director of the facility she attended. She is currently studying canine athleticism and nutrition. Please feel free to direct your questions to Lynn!
Q: Dear Lynn,
I have owned my dog for just about a year. I got her through a rescue. She is an awesome dog, but recently she has been having accidents in the house while I am gone, and I don’t know why. I was hoping you could shed some light on my problem.
Thanks, Maureen and KC
A: Hi Maureen,
Congrats on your rescue! Without seeing the dog and her environment there may be a few things causing this. I would first recommend have her examined by a vet to rule out any kidney or bladder issues. The next thing I would look at is her environment. There may have been some slight changes in her living space that, although minimal, may have caused some degree of stress causing her to have accidents. If you have relocated, or moved furniture, moved her bed, or if you were crating her and recently allowed her free access to the house, any of these thing may have brought on some stress causing accidents.
I would carefully examine anything that has "changed" in your house and attempt to modify the environment that will suit her best. Perhaps re-crating her for a period of time will help her, or allowing her access to one or two rooms only. You may want to restrict her water intake depending on the amount of accidents she is having. There are many variables to a situation such as yours, and it might be more helpful to send me some more information based on her living environment.
FOLLOW UP...
Dear Lynn,
I have to say you hit the nail on the head! I recently moved and because she was so good in the other house, I left her uncrated in my new home. I never knew something like this would cause KC to have accidents. I have begun crating her again and her crate has been dry when I get home. I feel bad that I didn’t know this and was beginning to think I was seeing a different side to KC. I will take your advise about keeping her in a crate (she really doesn’t mind the crate at all and sleeps in there with the door open at night) and then allowing her limited access to my kitchen.
Thanks so much for your help!
Maureen and KC (who is much happier now)
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