OCT. 2006

Ask the Lazi Birds!

Steve and Diane Lazicki have been rescuing and working with birds for over 8 years, as well as raising them as pets since childhood. They live with over 150 birds in their "bird house," so they have a wealth of bird expertise.

Q: Dear LaziBirds,
My parakeet has a rough time with the molt. Is there anything I can do to make him more comfortable? What kinds of foods are best for him at this time?
Concerned Parakeet Owner

A: Dear Concerned Parakeet Owner,
Yes, you can help your little buddy. First, daily misting is important. The rain is one of the things that helps birds in the 'wild.' Secondly, feeding high protein at this time is a good thing. Egg yolks are great and most birds love them (hard boiled) also, make sure you remove what isn't eaten after an hour or so. They also sell a molting supplement in most pet stores.
The next thing that will help is sunlight. Birds get the vitamin D that they need from it. NOT filtered through a window, which will block the UV rays. Through a screen is OK.
Thank you for being on top of the problem birds have with molting. So many human Moms & Dads don't notice and birdies just have to struggle through it the best way they can.
I hope this helps the little guy.
Love, LaziBirds

Ask The Cat Lady!

Sally Bahner has spent the last 10 years specializing in writing on cat-related issues, specifically nutrition, holistic care and multiple cat behavior. She was editor-in-chief of "The Whole Cat Journal" and has contributed to "Catnip", "Catwatch" and the new "Whole Cat Journal".

Q: Dear Sally,
I have an adult cat that is fixed and declawed. She is very friendly and shy at times. My older cousin found her and some other kittens together in a box. She kept one of them (the one I have now) and gave away the others. I was thinking of bringing in a few-week-old kitten. I’m not sure what gender, but my parents say if we bring in another cat my cat will get jealous and start marking her territory with her "pee." But my friend had an adult cat and brought in a kitten and nothing happened! My parents don’t believe me. Can you please tell my parents and me what will happen if I bring in a kitten?
Yours truly, Ebony

A: Dear Ebony,
People add cats and kittens to their households all the time, that’s how multiple-cat families evolve! It’s the way the cats are introduced that makes the difference. It’s important to keep the cats separated at first and introduce them gradually. Keep the new one in a separate room with food, litter box and bedding, chances are the resident kitty will suspect something is up, but that’s okay.

After a few days do a scent exchange and let the resident kitty smell the bedding of the new kitty and vice versa. Ideally, some screening placed in the doorway will enable the two cats to view each other safely. You can place the new kitty in a carrier and allow the resident kitty to smell and see the new kitty. Some hissing and growling may occur, that’s not unusual. You may even have to back-step a bit. Once the cats are face-to-face play with them together using a fishing pole toy. The key is to introduce the cats gradually. Be sure to give plenty of love, affection and reassurance to the resident kitty. There’ll be plenty of time for kisses for the newcomer once things are settled down.

Flower essences are kind, gentle remedies that are helpful for behavior and emotional issues. One of my favorite companies is Spirit Essence (www.spiritessence.com) which has a remedy called "New Beginnings." It’s good for adjustments to major life changes. Also, Bach’s Rescue Remedy (available in health food stores) is tried and true for stressful situations. These remedies are easy to give. Just place a few drops in the cats’ water bowls or rub a couple of drops on the ears.
If you go slow and have some patience your kitties will have a good chance of becoming buddies.
Sally

The Guinea Pig Expert!

Whitney Potsus has owned guinea pigs for nearly a decade. She is Vice President of The Critter Connection, Inc., a Durham-based non-profit dedicated to the rescue and rehabilitation of abandoned and neglected guinea pigs. You can find the rescue on the Web at www.ctguineapigrescue.org. Please direct all your Guinea Pig questions to Whitney.

Q: Dear Whitney,
Our girls are begging us to get the family a couple of guinea pigs. We’re amenable to having new family pets, but are concerned about having a smelly cage in the house. Is there anything we can do to reduce odors?
Thanks, Ann

A: Dear Ann,
Using the right bedding will reduce any odors that might come from a guinea pig's cage. Products like Carefresh and Kay-Tee Total Comfort are excellent; they’re absorbent, control odor well, have virtually no scent of their own, and are generally easy for people with allergies or asthma to be around. Pine and aspen bedding are also suitable, but they are dusty and come with their own scent, although in a well-ventilated cage the pine/aspen odors should dissipate quickly. Cedar bedding should never be used; it causes breathing problems — frequently fatal — in guinea pigs and other small animals.

No matter what bedding you use, the key to having a cage that doesn't smell is to clean it often. This means checking daily for really wet spots in the bedding, cleaning out those spots, and putting new bedding in. This also means dumping out all the bedding and replacing it at least 1 to 2 times a week. The more guinea pigs you have, the more often you need to clean.

If you want to shell out extra money for extra precautions, there are pet odor control products. Some products are designed to be sprinkled under the bedding when you clean the cage. I’ve used Ammo-Litter and found it to be effective; if you can’t find it locally, try online at www.shop.com or www.excitingpets.com. While I haven’t personally used it, friends with small animals give good reviews for Nature's Miracle Litter Treatment. Although there are products that are designed to be sprayed on top of bedding, I haven’t personally used them and can’t vouch for their effectiveness or their safety.
Whitney

The Bunny Expert!

Susan adopted her first house rabbit 5 years ago and soon after got highly involved in rabbit rescue. She has volunteered at a local rabbit rescue group and a local animal shelter working with rabbits. She has since co-founded 3 Bunnies Rabbit Rescue Inc. Susan can surely answer all of your rabbit questions!

Q: Dear Susan,
I was thinking of getting my 4-year-old grandchild a bunny for her birthday. What is your opinion on this?
Thank you, Grandma

A: Dear Grandma,
I am so glad you asked. Many people make the mistake of giving rabbits as presents and the poor bunny gets surrendered and could end up with a not so happy ending because the recipient did not want it in the first place. Also many people don't realize the care and commitment in owning a rabbit. Rabbits are not for small children. They have delicate bones and could get hurt easily by a small growing, curious child. Her parents would have to want the rabbit, take care of the rabbit, understand proper care, feeding, vet bills etc. and supervise rabbit and child.

Never get a rabbit for a child and expect them to take care of it. A rabbit is another member of the family and should be a family decision. It is very important that the owner connects with the rabbit. There are many personalities, and, here in rabbit rescue we try to match known rabbit personalities to the families.
Susan

Reptile Man!

Ron Wulff, the Reptile Man, has worked for one of the big retail pet stores for 6 years as a reptile and aquatic specialist. He rescues reptiles and runs www.nopaws.com, dedicating his time to educate people on exotic pets. Direct your exotic pet questions to Reptile Man.

Q: Dear Reptile Man,
I bought a baby water turtle from a man selling them on the street in NY. It came with a cage with and a small ramp so it can come out of the water. The water gets dirty fast and I have to change it everyday. Now the turtle’s eyes look puffy and it isn't eating. What can I do to help it?
Brenda

A: Dear Brenda,
The turtle that you bought is most likely a red-eared slider. They are originally from the gulf coast region of North and central America, but are mostly bred for the pet market in the southern US. They have been banned by the federal government since the 60's because of the potential for salmonella, yet they remain a popular pet.

Baby sliders are delicate animals and their minimum requirements are a lot more than the containers they sell them in. The minimum size tank you should use is ten gallon, with a submersible filter. The tank should be filled to almost the top. An aquarium heater to keep the water above 75 will be needed for the cooler months.

A basking spotlight can be provided either with a commercial basking lamp that suction cups to the tank, or you can silicone a more natural looking fish tank decoration right to the side of the tank. Lighting is important with baby turtles. They require a special light that produces the UVB rays of the sun that the turtle’s body needs to manufacture vitamin D3, which allows the turtle to get the calcium from its food. These bulbs do not give off heat, so its ok for the turtle to be just inches away. Without it, the turtle’s shell will not develop right, and they usually don't live long.

The more water the less turtle poop per gallon. The tank should be maintained like a fish tank, with just small water changes.

The puffy eyes are commonly blamed on a vitamin A deficiency, but in this case is most likely the start of a bacterial infection Adding some aquarium salt to the water combined with general better living conditions should clear it up, if it doesn't get better, it may need to see a veterinarian.

For a step-by-step guide to building a turtle tank, visit our web site, www.nopaws.com.
Reptile Man