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Ask The Bunny Expert!
Susan adopted her first house rabbit 5 years ago and soon after got highly involved in rabbit rescue. She has volunteered at a local rabbit rescue group and a local animal shelter working with rabbits. She has since co-founded 3 Bunnies Rabbit Rescue Inc. Susan can surely answer all of your rabbit questions!
Q: Hi Susan,
I’ve heard of people litter training their rabbits, is this possible?
Thank you, Carol
A: Dear Carol,
Yes, you can train rabbits to use litter boxes. After spaying and neutering rabbits, they are easier to litter box train. Rabbits usually pick a favorite spot in their cage and in your house at free roam/exercise time, to use as their potty area. That is where you want to put the litter boxes.
It is important to use a litter box that is big enough for the entire rabbits body to fit into. If the rabbit cannot fit into it with some extra room, then urine will go outside of the box and become messy. Just watch how your rabbit uses his potty to determine if you need a bigger box. Rectangular plastic cat litter boxes make great bunny litter boxes and come in different sizes. One in the cage and 1 or 2 in their play area will work well.
Be sure to use a safe litter. Recycled paper pellet litter works great. You can also use newspaper. There are articles on safe litter choices on the internet. Be careful, a lot of cat litters are toxic to rabbits. Some good bunny litters are woody pet horse and small animal bedding, carefresh small animal bedding and wood stove pellets with no additives. There are other safe choices as well. Putting hay in the litter box on top of the litter, helps draw bunny into the litter box to munch on hay while going potty.
It is easier to start with a small free roam area until bunny gets the idea of using the litter box. For example, let them roam in a kitchen until they master the litter box, then let them have more space, like the living room too. Many rabbits will pretty much train themselves while others may need a little help. Keep in mind a rabbit with health problems may not be able to be trained. You can just "bunny proof" an area and set it up to help the rabbit by putting towels down or something washable or easily cleaned for accidents for our fellow buns with medical problems.
Be sure to clean the litter boxes often. If they are too dirty, bunnies are smart and will protest by not using them and going elsewhere. Vinegar works well to clean litter boxes. There are litter box training articles at different rabbit rescue sites on the internet. The bunnies will help train you too. If something does not work, observe your bunny and try to figure out what you need to change to make it work. That is how I discovered my bun needed a bigger litter box.
Susan
Ask The Cat Lady
Sally Bahner has spent the last 10 years specializing in writing on cat-related issues, specifically nutrition, holistic care and multiple cat behavior. She was editor-in-chief of “The Whole Cat Journal” and has contributed to “Catnip”, “Catwatch” and the new “Whole Cat Journal”. She is also a member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. "Send your cat questions to Sally!
Q: Dear Sally,
My cat, Lacey, has been scratching, licking and biting herself a lot. In fact, she’s even lost her fur on her back near her tail. I don’t think she has fleas since she stays indoors. What could be the problem?
Barbara
A: Dear Barbara,
A problem like this requires some investigation, starting with a trip to your veterinarian and blood work to make sure Lacey is otherwise healthy. Three causes come to mind: (1) a flea allergy (2) food allergy or (3) a behavior disorder. Although fleas may not be obvious, they may be tracked in from outside or by the family dog. If a cat is supersensitive to fleas, it just takes one to create a problem.
Cats may develop allergies to the grains in highly processed dry food, with corn and wheat being the biggest culprits. Switch to a meat-based canned food or consider an elimination diet, which involves feeding a novel protein (a prescription diet of venison and peas, for instance). After she is on the elimination diet for a couple of months, gradually reintroduce new foods and watch for symptoms to re-occur.
The scratching and licking may be triggered by stress. Have there been any changes in Lacey’s environment – new additions to the family, separation, a move? Remember, cats perceive stress differently than we humans. Flower essences may be helpful or Comfort Zone by Feliway, which is the essence of feline facial pheromone. Your vet may want to do a culture and sensitivity test to determine the source of the allergy. They’re not always fool proof, but they may be a starting point. Avoid the use of steroids since they just mask the symptoms and do not treat the cause of the problem.
Sally
Ask the Vet!
Lauren Mascola is the veterinarian at Petcare Veterinary Services in West Hartford. She studied at UConn for undergraduate and Tufts for Veterinary Medicine. She has over 10 years experience and 2 dogs and 3 cats of her own. She is excited to answer your questions!
Q: Hi Dr. Mascola,
Is it good to give my dog bones? Some people say not to give my dog left over bones and others say it's no big deal. What do you think?
Ashley, Fairfield
A: Dear Ashley,
Thanks for the question. I assume by bones, you mean real ones from meat you have cooked, not processed treats you can buy in stores. In general, any poultry bones, for example chicken or turkey, will be more dangerous for dogs because they can splinter and cause intestinal lacerations or blockages. Bones from beef, steak or ribs, will be safer as long as you do not see small pieces breaking off as your dog enjoys them. I would not say there are any medical benefits from giving your dog real bones versus other types of treats, except there will not be any dyes or preservatives in the real ones.
Good luck! Dr. Mascola
Ask Dr. Post
Veterinary Oncology & Hematology Center is a cancer care treatment center for canines and felines in Norwalk. Dr. Gerald Post DVM, ACVIM has been specializing in cancer and cancer treatments for six years and has been practicing as a veterinarian since 1988. Write to Dr. Post with all your cancer related questions.
Q: Dear Dr. Post,
My pet is in need of treatment for cancer and I am wondering if the treatment will be painful for him?
Thank you, Jim
A: Dear Jim,
Special attention is paid to the control and management of pain in all of our patients. The latest pain relief protocols are used to control patient discomfort.
We want your pet to be as comfortable as possible through the treatment process.
Dr. Post
Ask the Lazi Birds!
Steve and Diane Lazicki have been rescuing and working with birds for over 8 years, as well as raising them as pets since childhood. They live with over 150 birds in their "bird house," so they have a wealth of bird expertise. Direct your bird related questions to the Lazi Birds.
Q: Dear LaziBirds,
What fruits should I offer my finches and canaries? I was told that they can eat the same things but that seeds are not enough for them.
Thank you, A Bird Lover
A: Dear Lover,
Your information is correct. First yes, basically they can share the same foods. Diet happens to be the first, in most cases 'problem,' that we tackle with any new bird. We do not advocate a seed only diet for any bird. They should be offered a variety of foods daily. We strive for a pellet diet. BOTH fruits and vegetables are an important part of a healthy, well-balanced cuisine.
Here are some foods that will be fun to try.
1. Every day birds should get a high protein food. You can offer a chopped egg (chicken) as well as a 'nestling food (found in pet food supply stores). Offer separately or mix together. One half-teaspoon per bird, per day is sufficient. Eggs spoil quickly, please take extra care in warm weather.
2. Any fruit, vegetable or greens eaten by humans are healthy to offer to canaries and finches. Avocado being the toxic exception!
3. Bite sized fruits and vegetables should be approximately 5 - 10% of the diet for these little guys.
4. Offer such things as grapes (broken or cut in half), bananas, apples and the like. Also, dazzle them with dandelion greens, shredded carrots, broccoli, spinach, mustard greens and sweet potatoes.
Variety is the 'spice' of life. Birds have taste buds and can distinguish many different flavors. Although not as many as there are in mammals nor are they all located on the tongue. Most taste buds in birds are located on the back of the roof of the mouth and at the base of the tongue in the throat.
Always keep a cuttle bone available in the cage.
This information was found in The Birdie Boutique.
Enjoy discovering your birdies pleasures.
-LaziBirds
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