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Ask The Bunny Expert!
Susan adopted her first house rabbit 5 years ago and soon after got highly involved in rabbit rescue. She has volunteered at a local rabbit rescue group and a local animal shelter working with rabbits. She has since co-founded 3 Bunnies Rabbit Rescue Inc. Susan can surely answer all of your rabbit questions!
Q: Dear Susan,
I have a cat and a rabbit, and I am wondering if they would get along?
Thank you, Vinny
A: Dear Vinny,
Yes they can, depending on the situation. Supervision and personalities are the key factors. My elder cat got along with all of my rabbits just fine. Since his passing and adopting a younger cat, I have to be extra cautious. Younger cats are still learning and have the chasing instinct. The smaller the rabbit the more fun for kitty, and the more danger for a little bunny. Larger rabbits tend to be more intimidating for a cat to mess with. Cats and rabbits, like children, need supervision and need to be taught to play gentle. There are a couple of cautions for rabbits and cat relationships.
-Be careful of cat litter. Try to keep the cat using his own litter box and the bunny using only the bunny litter box. A lot of cat litters are harmful to rabbits. If you can't keep the bunny away from the cat litter box by moving it somewhere that the bunny can't get to, you could use litters that are safe for both. Recycled paper and pellet litters are safe as well as a few others. But the best way is to discourage them from sharing the same box.
-If a cat gets too frisky and bites a rabbit, it can be very harmful. So again, cat personalities and supervision are very important for the safety of both pets.
Some cat personalities may not get along with rabbits. Many cats and rabbits actually play together, sleep together and even groom each other. Rabbits can also get along with other pets, such as dogs, guinea pigs and some birds. Just remember rabbits are prey animals to many other animal species so it is important to do research and use common sense as to whether or not a rabbit and a different species should meet.
Susan
Ask The Cat Lady
Sally Bahner has spent the last 10 years specializing in writing on cat-related issues, specifically nutrition, holistic care and multiple cat behavior. She was editor-in-chief of “The Whole Cat Journal” and has contributed to “Catnip”, “Catwatch” and the new “Whole Cat Journal”. She is also a member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. "Send your cat questions to Sally!
Q: Dear Sally,
My 13 year old calico cat Daisy has been pooping outside the box for months now and I'd love to know why. I've tried 2 litter pans, different litter, a more private place, a more open place, different food, some scolding etc.. I took her to a vet but he said she was too excited to sedate so he did nothing. It was a fight to get her there since she doesn't like to be picked up and it all gets very traumatic. I have sedation pills but I really don't like to do that to her. I think she's a little thin but she seems fine otherwise. Do you have any words of wisdom for me?
Dorothy
A: Hi Dorothy,
There could be a number of reasons for Daisy’s litter box avoidance – it’s usually one of the most frustrating issues cat owners experience. It does sound like you’ve been doing the right things so far. Since Daisy is 13, her age may be factor in what’s happening. Is she arthritic at all? It may be difficult for her to climb in and out of the box, and her footing may be affected when she is trying to defecate, especially if she is a little constipated. One of my cats (who probably has some neurological issues) starts in the box and sometimes ends up outside the box.
A vet check-up, including blood work, is definitely recommended. Since she is a little thin, a T4 test as part of the blood work would show if she is hyperthyroid. You can try giving her some Rescue Remedy in lieu of sedation (you’re right about not wanting to sedate her). Rescue Remedy can be found at health food stores. A few drops can be put in her water and/or rubbed on her ears. Another option may be a mobile vet, who can come to your home.
In the meantime, there is a litter called Cat Attract (www.preciouscat.com), which is available at independent pet stores. You also might want to put the poop back in the litter box and show it to her (without scolding) in case she’s getting a little on the forgetful side.
Calicos can be quirky, and I hope with some patience Daisy will resume her normal litter box habits.
Sally
Ask the Vet!
Lauren Mascola is the veterinarian at Petcare Veterinary Services in West Hartford. She studied at UConn for undergraduate and Tufts for Veterinary Medicine. She has over 10 years experience and 2 dogs and 3 cats of her own. She is excited to answer your questions!
Q: Hi Dr. Mascola,
My dog is 3 years old. This Spring he started licking on his feet all the time. He has never done this before. What could be wrong?
John
A: Dear John,
There are 2 different situations which come to mind. Your dog may be licking due to a seasonal allergy. Humans tend to get runny, itchy eyes or have stuffy sinus', but dogs can display foot-licking as their only allergic sign. The other possibility is that he has developed a habit for some reason. Dogs will lick on the tops of their feet if they are stressed or bored, and this may quickly become habit-forming. Usually though, if paw-licking is behavioral, and not due to allergies, they will only lick on 1 foot. It is best to see your veterinarian for a good assessment.
Good luck! Dr. Mascola
Ask Dr. Post
Veterinary Oncology & Hematology Center is a cancer care treatment center for canines and felines in Norwalk. Dr. Gerald Post DVM, ACVIM has been specializing in cancer and cancer treatments for six years and has been practicing as a veterinarian since 1988. Write to Dr. Post with all your cancer related questions.
Q: Dear Dr. Post,
My dog was diagnosed by my veterinarian with lymphoma, what can I do? What's my next step?
Harry
A: Harry,
First of all, know that the diagnosis of cancer is NOT a death sentence for your dog. Lymphoma is a very treatable cancer, very much like non-Hodgkin's lymphoma in people. Lymphoma tends to be very responsive to chemotherapy. When you hear the term chemotherapy, you think of what happens to people, and this is truly not the case for dogs or cats. At our oncology practice, 80% of dogs (and cats) treated with chemotherapy either have no or minimal side effects. Dogs with lymphoma that are not treated, unfortunately have a very short survival time of about 2 months. With chemotherapy (the protocols we use at our practice) the median survival time is 12-14 months with 25% of the dogs living for 2 years or longer. And just as importantly, the quality of life while on therapy is often excellent. If a pet does not respond well to a specific chemotherapeutic protocol then another protocol can be tried.
Dr. Post
Ask the Lazi Birds!
Steve and Diane Lazicki have been rescuing and working with birds for over 8 years, as well as raising them as pets since childhood. They live with over 150 birds in their "bird house," so they have a wealth of bird expertise. Direct your bird related questions to the Lazi Birds.
Q: Dear LaziBirds,
We are a working couple and thinking about getting a bird. We would like to know how long a bird will live normally. My girlfriend had a Cockateil that lived for almost 10 years! We are thinking of getting a Cockatoo or, African Grey. Should we look for a hand fed baby?
Thank you, Curious George & Caring Cathy
A: Dear George & Cathy
I'm so glad you are asking questions unlike those who don't ask until it's too late for both them and an unfortunate bird. KUDOS to you. I'm sorry to say, your friends teil died young. A healthy teil can live in excess of 17 years! Parakeets average 10 years. Conures vary, but you can expect a range of 30 to 40 years. Cockatoo's up to 80 (having second thoughts yet)? African Greys live 60 to 80 years. If you want a bird that will live a "long" time, a macaw can live in excess of 100 years.
These figures are based on several factors, such as proper diet, exposure to natural sunlight, regular veterinarian checkups, out of cage time/interaction and a 'bird safe' home. These are just the basics...
More important than a hand fed baby is a bird that has had a lot of human handling and interaction.
I am giving you my opinion based on a 'rescue' viewpoint. We take in birds from finches to macaws. Some of these guys have never been handled or, were handled improperly. The word 'rescue' says it all. Some are even wild caught. We have been able to turn the majority of the most aggressive birds around. Don’t get an aggressive bird with the intention of 'taming' it. Exotic birds are wild animals! Success can take years, if at all successful. If a bird was handled properly as a chick, I find it similar to a hand fed baby.
Love, LaziBirds
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