DEC. 2006

Reptile Man!

Ron Wulff, the Reptile Man, has worked for one of the big retail pet stores for 6 years as a reptile and aquatic specialist. He rescues reptiles and runs www.nopaws.com, dedicating his time to educate people on exotic pets. Direct your exotic pet questions to Reptile Man.

Q: Hi Ron,
My son is 10-years-old and has wanted a reptile since he could talk. We have narrowed it down to a choice between a baby leopard gecko and a baby iguana. They are both in the same price range, though the leopard gecko is much smaller. Which do you think would make the better pet for a 10-year-old who will be taking full responsibility? Also, is it better to get them in pairs so they won't be lonely?
Jessica

A: Hi Jessica,
A baby iguana would not be a good lizard choice for a 10-year-old, or for anyone that won't be able to dedicate a small room to the animal in the future. There is an entire iguana article planned for a future issue but in summary they just get way too big.

Purchasing baby lizards in pairs is a bad idea, even though they look cute displayed in groups. When they are all perched in the same place, it isn't because they like to hang out together, it’s because that is the best spot to be.

Leopard geckos are, in my opinion, the best first lizard. Leopard geckos are small nocturnal insect eating lizard that originally came from India/Pakistan but are now bred in captivity and come in a variety of colors and patterns. Adults reach a size between 8 and 10 inches. Although they come from a desert like environment they spend most of the day underground where it is a bit cooler with a bit more humidity making them fairly easy to care for. They will even poop in the same part of the cage all the time.

You can keep one in a 10-gallon tank with either a screen cover with a dome type lamp or a fish tank cover that comes with a light. The main heat should be provided with a heating pad that goes under the tank, creating an area between 85 and 90 degrees on the ground, while the light warms the air and provides the "day". On the side of the tank with the heating pad, put some sort of hide spot, like a coconut shell or a half log. That is where they spend most of the day. Put a water dish on the cooler side of the cage. They may or may not use it so you should mist the cage with water at least twice a day.

Substrate is an important factor in the most common health problem with leopard geckos, which is bad shedding from lack of humidity. The lizards don't shed in one piece like a snake. The lizard will look dull and sort of stiff for a few days, then the old skin peels off and the lizard eats it. The biggest danger comes from dried skin building up on the animal’s feet/toes, cutting off the circulation.

There are many different types of commercial substrates for desert reptiles. Some of it is calcium based so if the lizard accidentally ingests it, in theory it would be beneficial. Some of those products are so dry that water will bead up and pool when it is spilled on it, creating an unhealthy environment for the animal when humidity is provided by misting.

By mixing a small amount of the potting soil like substrate called Forest bedding, with the non-calcium desert sand and pressing it firmly to the floor of the cage you will be able to mist the cage with out making puddles.

The most important part of the child/lizard relationship is handling. Handling should be kept under supervision and for no more than an hour at a time. Remember, when you take it out of the cage you will be dropping the temperature from 10 to 20 degrees. Lizards don't really need to be handled but leopard geckos will usually tolerate some. It is better to scoop your hand under the lizard and let it walk on your hand and then walk from one hand to the other. They don't like being petted and will usually jump if you do. Never pick it up by the tail because the tails are designed to break off and regenerate allowing it to escape from predators. Be sure to stress to your son that if he grabs the lizard and scares it, it could nip him. Although it is hardly more than a pinch, I have seen children lose interest quickly if their lizard gets an attitude.
Good luck
Ron

Ask The Cat Lady!

Sally Bahner has spent the last 10 years specializing in writing on cat-related issues, specifically nutrition, holistic care and multiple cat behavior. She was editor-in-chief of "The Whole Cat Journal" and has contributed to "Catnip", "Catwatch" and the new "Whole Cat Journal".

Q: Dear Sally,
Hopefully you can help me…I've been on the Internet and asked my vet with no real answer. My daughter gave me a beautiful calico DSH this spring. When I took her to the vet a week after I got my Ms. Lilly we suspected she was separated from her mom way too early and at that point she was probably 4-5 weeks old. (She ate well on her own and knew the litter box right away). She's a joy and entertaining as all kittens are except for one thing. Lilly likes to suck her tail. I've tried occupying her mind on other things and if I gently hold her tail she will go after it, her paw digging deep into it. The sound is awful as you can imagine. She likes to sleep with me but I have to take her off the bed. Is there anything I can do to cure her of this habit?!
Thanks, Laura

A: Dear Laura,
What you describe is a variation of a relatively common problem in cats. It can manifest itself in sucking on companions, owner's hair, clothing. Our cat Coco, who also happens to be a calico, will grab the corner of my husband's robe or a sweater of mine and knead it and twist it with a glazed look in her eyes. She and your kitty are obviously getting comfort and satisfaction from the act.

Since Lilly is still young, she may grow out of it, maybe once she is spayed. In the meantime, you can try distracting her with play (a fishing pole toy is always good). Something bad tasting like Bitter Apple can be tried, but I doubt that will be effective. She may be feeling anxious, given her background, so the sucking gives her comfort.
Flower remedies may be helpful (www.bachcentre.com and

www.spiritessence.com). They work in a kind and gentle manner on various emotional and behavior issues. Check into ones for neediness, insecurity, and/or obsessive behavior.

The big concern would be if she is mutilating her tail and that might require a different approach. Cats, and calicos in particular, can be very quirky!
Sally

The Guinea Pig Expert!

Whitney Potsus has owned guinea pigs for nearly a decade. She is Vice President of The Critter Connection, Inc., a Durham-based non-profit dedicated to the rescue and rehabilitation of abandoned and neglected guinea pigs. You can find the rescue on the Web at www.ctguineapigrescue.org. Please direct all your Guinea Pig questions to Whitney.

Q: Hi Whitney,
We have a question about bedding. The person who we bought our guinea pig from recommended that we use wood pellets for bedding (for wood stoves). They actually do an excellent job with the odor and absorption, but are not soft at all and he cannot burrow in them. We tried using Carefresh Pet bedding and the cage started smelling bad very quickly (<1 week). We were planning to try a combination of both beddings, but thought you might have a better solution.
Thank you!
Eleanor Page

A: Eleanor,
I’m afraid you’ve received bad information. Wood pellets are not acceptable bedding for guinea pigs. Fortunately, you have lots of other good options that are safe, affordable, easier for your little guy to burrow through, and substantially more comfortable to walk on!

Pine and aspen bedding products are safe and good at odor control. They do bring a slight woody odor of their own and can be a bit dusty, and both factors may make them undesirable for people with dust or tree/wood allergies or sensitivity to odors. Carefresh and Kaytee Total Comfort are excellent products, do very well at odor control, are virtually odorless themselves, and are not as dusty as pine or aspen bedding.

If your guinea pig eats and drinks a lot, he’s naturally going to put out more waste, but any odor problems can be rectified by "spot cleaning" — checking daily for the messiest spots, cleaning them out, and replacing with clean bedding — between your weekly full-cage cleaning.

Some owners comment that unneutered males sometimes have a stronger odor to them as they mature. If the odor seems especially strong, it wouldn’t hurt to have him checked by a vet who specializes in exotic animals to rule out developing problems with the urinary or digestive tract.
Thanks for writing!
Whitney

The Bunny Expert!

Susan adopted her first house rabbit 5 years ago and soon after got highly involved in rabbit rescue. She has volunteered at a local rabbit rescue group and a local animal shelter working with rabbits. She has since co-founded 3 Bunnies Rabbit Rescue Inc. Susan can surely answer all of your rabbit questions!

Q: Dear Susan,
Can two female rabbits form a bonded pair? I’ve had a Netherland Dwarf mix for about a year and a half and just moved in with my fiancé who has a three-month-old Holland Lop. They are both female. They get along okay outside of their cages (except occasionally when the older one tries to mount the little one). But all the literature I’ve read always talks about male/female pairs.
Thanks, Allison

A: Dear Allison,
Yes, two females can be bonded, but it depends on a few factors. First no matter what sex mixture in bonds, all rabbits should be spayed and neutered. This helps to calm down the rabbits to prevent fighting due to hormones. Also it depends on personalities of the rabbits. For instance two dominant female rabbits normally do not bond and may even kill each other. It is best to try and match a mellow personality with a dominant personality or another combo that works. If your rabbits are already showing some interest in each other without fighting, chances are it might work. Sometimes adults and babies will bond. But as the baby matures and starts getting hormones raging, it can create a disbond. It is easier to bond when both rabbits are old enough to be spayed and neutered.

Also many times people think they have two of the same sex, let the rabbits be together and next thing you know they have a whole litter of rabbits. I caution not to put rabbits together for any length of time unless you definitely know what sexes they are. This is another reason to make sure both are spayed and neutered. Your baby is not old enough to get spayed yet. Most vets will spay at about six months old. And it is important to use a rabbit savvy/exotic vet.
Susan

Dog Training?

Lynn Whittaker, Dog Trainer and owner of Bow Wow University has been training dogs for several years, has extensive rescue experience, is a pet sitter certified in Pet First Aid and specializes in aggression management. She is also an Aroma-therapist and a Reiki II practitioner. She has attended professional dog training school and later became the director of the facility she attended. She is currently studying canine athleticism and nutrition. Please feel free to direct your questions to Lynn!

Q: Dear Lynn,
I am interested in getting a puppy. I have had dogs in the past, but this time I would prefer getting something younger so I may bond from the start. All of the dogs I have owned were all older rescues and this will be my first puppy. At what age should my puppy be ready to leave its litter?
Thank you, Diana I.

A: Dear Diana,
A reputable breeder should keep pups until they’re 10 to 12 weeks and some times longer, because it's better for the pups. The new owners are happier with their pups if it doesn't cry all night. The pups are slowly taken away from mom and then the littermates. The breeder may have the pups sleeping by themselves in their own crates before they leave the house. This way the pups will cry less when the new owner takes them home. At that age, the pups are well on the way to being house broken. A breeder can even begin to teach them to stay off the furniture, begin grooming habits and get them on a solid feeding schedule.

But most importantly, all puppies go through several critical developmental periods, and when pups are at the age where most breeders let them go (6-8 weeks) so many lessons a pup will learn in its litter pack are generally lost because they are no longer in the company of their littermates to fully experience them. Getting an older pup of 10 -12 weeks will create better bonding for you both.

I am pleased to hear that you have rescued in the past. It is a wonderful experience, isn’t it? I wish you the best on your puppy endeavors and don’t forget to sign up for puppy classes with your local trainer!
Lynn