AUGUST 2006

Ask the Lazi Birds!

Steve and Diane Lazicki have been rescuing and working with birds for over 8 years, as well as raising them as pets since childhood. They live with over 150 birds in their "bird house," so they have a wealth of bird expertise.

Q: Dear LaziBirds,
Can I give my bird an old telephone book to shred?
Thank you, Hilary

A: Dear Hilary,
Definitely. The ink is soy based and safe. However, there is some question as to the pages that have a lot of color on them. I would tear them out. You may want to drill a hole in the upper left corner so the book can be hung. You will have a lot of shredded paper to clean but your bird will have hours of occupied fun.

If you have a grate in your birds cage, you can put a layer of newspaper on the grate so that all you will have to do is roll the newspaper with the shreds inside for a faster, easier cleanup. There are many 'home made' toys that keep birds content and they are of little or no expense.
LaziBirds

Ask The Cat Lady!

Sally Bahner has spent the last 10 years specializing in writing on cat-related issues, specifically nutrition, holistic care and multiple cat behavior. She was editor-in-chief of "The Whole Cat Journal" and has contributed to "Catnip", "Catwatch" and the new "Whole Cat Journal".

Q: Dear Sally,
In May 2006 you had a question regarding a cat that attacked its owner because it became overly aggressive due to another cat. My cat is a home cat that lives in a relatively new home that was the territory of a neighbor's cat prior to and during construction. The cat is in Florida for the winter, but when he is here in Connecticut he is outside hunting much of the time.

I am allergic to cats but agreed to take allergy medication so we could take this cat from my son who now is getting married and has two dogs with his fiance. All was okay until last week when I was in the same room with our cat and the neighbor's cat came calling. Our cat raced back and forth jumping from window to door and then viscously attacked me biting my hand. It was extremely painful and remains painful almost 10 days after the incident. I took our cat to the vet so it could get its shots and asked if I could have its teeth removed. They indicated that this was a bit extreme, however, I cannot take more pain and don't know what else to do. Can we put something around our house (some chemical) that will keep the neighbor's cat away sufficiently to prevent future incidents? Should I have only the fangs removed or all of the teeth? Should I give the cat away? My wife and I have become quite attached to the cat, but I cannot risk getting injured again. What can we do?
Best regards, Garry

A: Dear Garry,
As with the incident you read about previously, this is another case of redirected aggression. Your cat was agitated when she saw the neighbor's cat and struck out at whomever was closest to her - you! Was this the first and only time this happened? What is the cat's personality like on a day-to-day basis?

First, I would try to speak with your neighbor about keeping his cat inside - explain that your cat became upset and attacked you. Cats should be kept inside or let out only under supervised conditions for their own safety. Otherwise, if your cat observes the neighbor cat from one particular window, consider preventing access to that window. In addition, the Drs. Foster & Smith catalog (www.DrsFosterSmith.com) has an Indoor/Outdoor Repellent to keep cats away from trees, shrubs and other forbidden surfaces. Also for outdoor use, there's an indoor/outdoor motion-activated alarm that can be staked outdoors; it has 20-foot range detection. It's not cheap, however, $64.99 and I don't know how well they work. If your cat has a tendency to be agitated, there's "Comfort Zone" plug-ins and Feliway, which contain essences of feline phermones (also in DrsF&S).

Bach Flower Essences (www.bachcentre.com) can also help with calming - they are essences of flowers geared to help emotional and behavioral issues, available in most health food stores. Your vet was correct in having reservations about taking out your cat's teeth - the idea is probably even worse than declawing and the cat may find another way of venting his aggression. I do commend you on taking in the cat despite your allergies and I can suggest some products to help, available in the catalogs and at pet supply stores: Nature's Miracle makes "Dander Remover & Body Deodorizer; Allerpet/C is formulated specifically for cats, cleansing the hair of dander and saliva; and Nova Pearls is a spray-on moisturizer for cat dander relief. They're all sprayed on and worked into the cat's coat.

A Quercetin and Nettles supplement can help you with your symptoms, but check with your doctor to see if it conflicts with the medication you are taking. And finally washing your hands after petting the kitty and regular vacuuming are simple steps that can also help. I feel bad that your son had to give up his cat because of the dogs, but I hope that his loss is your gain.
Sally

The Guinea Pig Expert!

Whitney Potsus has owned guinea pigs for nearly a decade. She is Vice President of The Critter Connection, Inc., a Durham-based non-profit dedicated to the rescue and rehabilitation of abandoned and neglected guinea pigs. You can find the rescue on the Web at www.ctguineapigrescue.org. Please direct all your Guinea Pig questions to Whitney.

Q: Dear Whitney,
Despite the warm and sometimes humid weather this summer, and our frequent use of air conditioning, one of our guinea pigs doesn't drink a lot of water. Should I be worried?
Concerned piggy owner

A: Dear Concerned piggy owner,
If this is a sudden or recent change in behavior (i.e., this guinea pig used to drink a fair amount of water daily and now isn't), it would be wise to take him/her to your vet for a proper exam. If no problems are discovered, you'll be out a few bucks for the visit and any lab tests but you'll have peace of mind.

Your question leaves the impression that a) you have more than one guinea pig, and b) the water-drinking habits of your other guinea pig(s) don't appear to be abnormal. So that rules out problems with the water bottle. In the interest of education, though, there are several reasons why a cage's water bottle will interfere with animals' drinking.

a) The bottle isn't cleaned frequently and/or properly. A buildup of "backwash particles" (commonly from the food pellets that small animals eat) gunks up the drinking spout and the bottle. Regular rinsing of both with hot water, and frequent cleaning with water bottlebrushes (available at most pet stores for $1.99 to $2.49) will prevent this buildup.
b) The bottle was washed with detergent and water, leaving a residue that puts an icky taste in the water. Water bottles should be washed or soaked in hot water only; hot water and a bottlebrush will more than adequately clean bottles.
c) The water isn't changed frequently enough, causing the water and the inside of the bottle to get a little slimy (thus giving the water a bad taste).
d) The water bottle was filled with water that was too cold. Really cold water has a habit of jamming up, or "freezing," the ball bearing in drinking spouts.
e) The rubber ring inside the bottle cover could be degrading. Some of the old bottles had black rings instead of clear ones; when they start degrading, they put an undesirable taste in the water. If your water bottle has a black ring in it, rinse the ring and dry it with a white cloth. If you see a black smudge on the towel, it's time to replace the bottle.
f) If you have hard water, it could be leaving residue in the drinking spout; as this residue builds up, it interferes with the ball bearing in the spout. (Also, if you have hard water, there's a good bet your animals don't like drinking it any more than you do.)

Finally, some guinea pigs simply drink water as infrequently as camels. If your guinea pigs' diet is rich in fruits and veggies, it could be that your guinea pig's body is getting enough fluids from sources like romaine lettuce, sweet bell peppers, cucumbers, melon chunks, or the occasional grape. During warm weather, add extra fruits or vegetables to their diet throughout the day (don't overfeed - you don't want to flood their system). A guinea pig that won't drink a lot of water can almost invariably be enticed by an extra piece of cucumber at breakfast or an extra piece of melon in the evening.
Whitney

Dog Training?

Lynn Whittaker, Dog Trainer and owner of Bow Wow University has been training dogs for several years, has extensive rescue experience, is a pet sitter certified in Pet First Aid and specializes in aggression management. She is also an Aroma-therapist and a Reiki II practitioner. She has attended professional dog training school and later became the director of the facility she attended. She is currently studying canine athleticism and nutrition. Please feel free to direct your questions to Lynn!

Q: Dear Lynn,
My dog likes to put his front feet close to the ground and leaves his rear end up in the air, and sometimes he barks or growls when he does this. I don't think he is in pain, but he does it a lot, and sometimes he runs around really fast and comes back in front of me and does it all over again. Can you tell me what he is doing, and should I be alarmed?
Thanks! Jackie M.

A: Hi Jackie,
No need for alarm here. Your dog is merely attempting to get you to play with him. This is a form of canine body language. We call it "bowing" or "play bowing". The barking might be because the bowing was not sufficient enough to get your attention, so he is barking to engage you in some play. If you have a ball or his favorite toy, here would be a great place to toss it and do some playing with your comical canine!
Lynn

Ask the Vet!

Lauren Mascola is the veterinarian at Petcare Veterinary Services in West Hartford. She studied at UConn for undergraduate and Tufts for Veterinary Medicine. She has over 10 years experience and 2 dogs and 3 cats of her own. She is excited to answer your questions!

Q: Dear Dr. Mascola,
I would like to take my dog jogging with me. Are there any suggestions for getting started?
Thanks, JohnA: Tiffany,

A: Dear John,
Thanks for the question. Without meeting your dog, it is a little difficult to give you specific advice. You and your veterinarian are the best judges as to whether your dog should run with you. In general, you want to make sure he is enthusiastic to accompany you. If he is reluctant, either start more slowly with him or maybe he is not cut out for jogging. Also, during the warm weather months, you should run either very early or later in the evening, so that the danger of overheating is less. Finally, if you run on the pavement, take it slowly at first. Dogs can get blisters on the bottom of their feet if they are not used to running long distances. It may take a few weeks for the pads to fully callous and be safe for running.
Good luck! Dr. Mascola

The Bunny Expert!

Susan adopted her first house rabbit 5 years ago and soon after got highly involved in rabbit rescue. She has volunteered at a local rabbit rescue group and a local animal shelter working with rabbits. She has since co-founded 3 Bunnies Rabbit Rescue Inc. Susan can surely answer all of your rabbit questions!

Q: Dear Susan,
Is there anything I can do for my house bunny in this summer heat? Sometimes he looks so hot.
Thank you, Hank

A: Dear Hank,
Yes, bunnies actually do better in colder conditions verses hot conditions although both weather conditions can be dangerous if not controlled properly. But, let's talk about this summer heat. You can put a couple of ice cubes in a water crock.

I normally make sure my water bottles and crocks are filled with fresh cold water and I have extras in the cages or play areas since they usually drink more, just like us, in this heat. One of my favorite tips I learned is to take empty water bottles and soda bottles and fill them with water. Put them in the freezer until frozen. Keep a stockpile. Then put a frozen water bottle in the cage or play area. If the buns are hot they like to lie near them to stay cool. You can easily wash and refill and freeze again as needed. This is also a very good idea to do when transporting a rabbit in a hot car. Place a frozen water bottle in the pet carrier on the trip to the vet etc. Just make sure you don't have a small bunny with a big bottle that might roll around and hurt the bunny. Make sure all things are secure and a good fit for safety. Carriers can be seat belted in. Towels can be put in the carrier for comfort. If a bottle is too cold for bunny you can wrap it in a washcloth.

My bunnies are spoiled when we use the central air and they lay near the vents when accessible. When the air is off, I use fans. I have a fan in their room but I do not blow it directly on them. I aim it up to cool the room. If they really look hot, you can mist their ears with a little cool water.

Basements are a nice cool area in the summer provided your basement is the type that is good enough to hang out in. Finished basements or problem free basements should be okay. But if you have mildew, water or other types of problems and you can't breathe well down there, than don't put bunny there. Also if they are in a safe basement, make sure it is an area you frequent often.

Ceramic tiles that you can purchase at home improvement stores can be used to help keep bunny cool. 1 or 2 large ones put in a cage or play area is a favorite place for bun to lie on, as they tend to stay cool.
Susan